Yamagata Dashi

“山形だし”

I first heard about Yamagata Dashi about ten years ago when I was in Tokyo. Originally, it was a convenient dish that spread throughout the rural areas of Yamagata Prefecture during the busy summer farming season, but now you can find pre-made versions in Tokyo supermarkets, and it has become a staple summer menu item across Japan.

Although it is called "dashi," it is different from the traditional Japanese broth made from bonito or kelp. In Japanese cuisine, ingredients like green onions, ginger, shiso, and wasabi that add aroma and flavour accents are called "yakumi," and Yamagata Dashi is the culmination of these yakumi.

Finely chopped vegetables and yakumi are mixed together, and their fragrant taste is enjoyed simply with rice, udon, soba, tofu, and other dishes for a refreshing meal. There are various theories about the origin of the name "dashi," but the one that makes the most sense to me is that it enhances other ingredients like traditional dashi broth.

The basic recipe for Yamagata Dashi usually includes aubergine and cucumber, but it varies from household to household. This time, I will introduce my recipe for Yamagata Dashi served with somen noodles, which I make in the UK. Since shiso is hard to find in the UK, I substitute it with basil, which belongs to the same family. Please enjoy it chilled on a hot summer day!

Ingredients for Yamagata Dashi (serves 2)

Aubergine   100g

Cucumber   100g

Okra   100g 8

Spring onion   30g

Ginger    15g

Basil    5 leaves

Sesame seeds   2tbsp

Kombu seaweed   5x2cm size sheet (cut into thin strips or powder)

Katsuo bushi   2g

Nori seaweed   to garnish

Wasabi    to your liking

Ingredients for Dressing

Soy sauce   3tbsp

Mirin    2tsp

Rice vinegar   1/2tbsp

Sugar   1tsp

Ingredients for Tsuyu

Kombu seaweed   2g

Katsuo bushi   5g

Water   180ml

Soy sauce   2tbsp

Mirin   2tbsp

Somen noodle   2 bundles

1. Remove the thorns from the okra by rolling them with salt on a chopping board. Blanch them in boiling water, then transfer to icy water while they still retain their crunchiness.
   

2. Finely dice the aubergine and soak in water for 3 minutes to remove the bitterness. Drain, then mix with 1 teaspoon of the dressing. Discard the diluted dressing. This process helps the aubergine stay fresh without becoming too watery.
   

3. Roast the sesame seeds and freshly grind them. Combine the ingredients for Yamagata Dashi with the dressing. Refrigerate the mixture for about 1 hour.
   

4. Meanwhile, prepare the Tsuyu. Pour 180ml of water into a saucepan and soak the kombu for 30 minutes.
   

5. Start simmering over medium heat to extract the umami from the kombu. Remove the kombu just before it boils. Add soy sauce and mirin, and turn off the heat when it starts to boil. Add katsuobushi and let it cool to room temperature.
   

6. Strain the Tsuyu through a fine sieve and discard the katsuobushi. Chill in the fridge until serving.
   

7. Boil the somen noodles and rinse them well with cold water to remove any sliminess. Drain the noodles and serve with chilled Yamagata Dashi and Tsuyu, with nori and wasabi on the side.